Donoussa is the most remote of the Small Cyclades, a group of little islands between Naxos and Amorgos in the Cyclades. Fewer than two hundred people live here.
There is one port and village, Stavros, three tiny settlements inland, and eleven kilometres of asphalt road. Everything else is walked.
What Donoussa has instead of size is a proper network of marked footpaths, sandy beaches on the southern coast that most visitors reach on foot, and the remains of a Geometric town on a headland above the sea. In myth this is where Dionysus hid Ariadne so that Theseus would not find her.
The island's best period was around the ninth century BC. It sat on the sea route between mainland Greece, the Dodecanese and the coast of Asia Minor, and ships anchored here.
At Vathy Limenari, on a headland in the southeast, archaeologists found a fortified settlement of the Geometric period, built on top of an older Bronze Age one. It was excavated between 1968 and 1972 and produced a large quantity of pottery, which is now in the Archaeological Museum of Naxos. The finds show more connection with the Dodecanese than with the rest of the Cyclades.
Work began in 2026 to clear and present the site, so that visitors can understand what they are looking at. Until then, it is walls and foundations on a beautiful piece of coast.
Donoussa is small, dry and hilly, and it is one of the best islands in the Cyclades for walking.
The paths are signposted, mapped and maintained. They cover most of the island, they are graded for difficulty, and the shortest takes half an hour while the longest takes about an hour and a half. In 2025 Donoussa was added to the Greek Islands Trail, the national network of island walking routes.
The route people talk about runs from Stavros to Kalotaritissa, crossing the shoulder of Mount Papas through vineyards, olive groves and the workings of old mines. It ends at a small stone village with a white church and two beaches.
Another path drops from Kedros along the south coast, past small bays where millers once tied up their boats, and reaches an old iron furnace where ore from the mines was loaded onto ships.
Two sea caves are worth knowing about. Fokospilia, at Cape Moschona, is a refuge for monk seals, and the Cave of the Wall is on the northwest coast. Both are reached by boat.
All the good beaches are on the south coast, and all of them are sand.
Livadi is the big one: a long stretch of sand with tamarisk trees behind it and turquoise water. At one end stand the syrmata, the closed stone sheds where fishing boats are kept. It is reached by a twenty-minute walk from Mersini, or by boat from Stavros. There is nothing there — bring everything you need.
Kedros is the best known, with clear water and, just offshore in shallow water, the wreck of a German ship sunk by the Allies in the Second World War. You can see it while snorkelling.
Vathy Limenari is below the archaeological site, and Fykio is the one to walk to if you want to be alone.
Kalotaritissa, at the western end of the road, has two small sandy coves beside the village.
Only the beach at Stavros is organised.
Prices shown per night for a sample 3-night stay. Rates and availability vary by season — select your dates for live pricing.
There is no airport. Donoussa is served by ferry from Piraeus, a journey of seven to nine hours, and from Naxos, which is the practical route: fly or sail to Naxos, then take the local boat.
The small ferry that links the Small Cyclades calls here, connecting Donoussa with Koufonisia, Schinoussa, Iraklia, Naxos and Amorgos. Sailings are fewer than on larger islands and drop sharply outside summer, so check the timetable before you fix your dates and leave slack at both ends.
There are eleven kilometres of road, running from Stavros to Kalotaritissa, and a small bus covers it, stopping at Kedros, Mesaria and Mersini. Beyond that, you walk.
A scooter is enough for the road if you want one. Boats leave Stavros in summer for the beaches and the caves.
The season is June to September. June and September are the best months for walking, and the sea is already warm in June. In August the island fills with Greek visitors and campers, and the small amount of accommodation is booked up months ahead. Outside the season most things close and there are fewer sailings — with a real chance of a cancelled one when the wind gets up
Bring cash. Services on Donoussa are minimal, and you should not count on being able to withdraw money.
Most beaches have no facilities and no shade except the tamarisk trees. Carry water and food.
Wear proper shoes for the paths. They are well marked but they are stone and gravel, and there is very little shade on any of them.
The island has no petrol station, a small shop or two, and a handful of tavernas. Book accommodation before you sail rather than after you arrive.