Kea, also called Tzia, is an island in the Cyclades, close to the eastern edge of Attica, the region that includes Athens. Ferries from Lavrio reach its main port, Korissia, in about one hour. The island is hilly and green in places, with oak woods inland and many small coves on the coast. Its capital, Ioulida, stands on a hill about 6 km from the port. Vourkari, a harbour village close to the port, has tavernas and moorings for yachts.
Visitors come to walk the marked trails, to swim at sandy beaches, and to see ancient Karthaia and the Lion of Kea, a stone lion carved about 2,600 years ago. Because the ferry ride is short, many people from Athens spend weekends here.
Kea has twelve waymarked walking routes. Wooden signs mark the start and end of each route, and small metal signs mark the way. Many routes follow old paths that islanders used before there were cars. They start from villages such as Ioulida, the capital, and Kato Meria. The longest walk goes from Ioulida to the ancient site of Karthaia, about 12 km. A shorter path to Karthaia starts at the village of Havouna and goes downhill for about 40 minutes.
Wreck diving is the other main activity. Three wrecks off Kea are protected, and only licensed dive centres may take divers to them. One centre works from Vourkari, a harbour village close to the port of Korissia. The paddle steamer Patris lies at 28 to 54 metres. The liners Burdigala and Britannic lie much deeper, so these dives need technical diving training. Divers may not enter the wrecks or take anything from them.
Karthaia was one of the four city-states of ancient Kea. It stands above the bay of Poles at the south-eastern tip of the island. The remains include the temple of Pythian Apollo from about 530 BC, a temple of Athena, and a theatre cut into the rock that held about 900 people. The site has no fences or tickets, and it is reached on foot.
On the edge of Ioulida, the capital, stands the Lion of Kea, a large stone lion about 6 metres long, carved in the 6th century BC. A signposted path leads to it from the town in about ten minutes. Near the port of Korissia, the prehistoric settlement of Agia Irini has remains from about 3300 BC to the end of the Bronze Age. Its finds, including clay female figures, are shown in the archaeological museum in Ioulida.
Most of the beaches that have a road and facilities are sandy. Otzias, on a wide bay in the north, has about 700 metres of sand and shallow water. Koundouros, on the south-west coast, is a sandy beach with places to eat and water sports nearby.
Spathi, on the east coast, is a remote sandy beach, and a walking trail leads to it. Many other coves around the island have no facilities and are reached by dirt track, on foot or by boat.
Ioulida, the capital, rises on a hillside about 6 km from the port, at around 300 metres. Its old two-storey houses have tiled roofs and stand close together along stone lanes and small squares. Cars cannot enter its centre, so you park below and walk in. Above the town, the stone towers of 26 old windmills line the ridge.
Vourkari is a small harbour village on a large bay close to Korissia, the port. Yachts and fishing boats moor along its quay, and tavernas line the water.
Central and eastern Kea are covered by an oak forest of about 2,000 hectares. The trees are valonia oaks, and the forest is protected under Natura 2000, the European network of protected nature areas. Several of the walking routes pass through it.
For at least 400 years, islanders collected the large acorn cups and sold them abroad for tanning leather. Acorns are still used on the island in crafts and in local recipes.
The best-known local product is loza, a cured and smoked pork. The island also makes several local cheeses, such as kopanisti, a soft and tangy cheese, and xerotyri, a hard dry one. Thyme honey comes from the island's hills. These products are sold in shops and served in tavernas across Kea.
Prices shown per night for a sample 3-night stay. Rates and availability vary by season — select your dates for live pricing.
Kea is reached by ferry from Lavrio, a port close to the eastern edge of Attica, about 60 km from Athens. The crossing takes about an hour. Several ferry companies run the route, and boats arrive at Korissia, the main port. In summer the ferries often sell out, so book ahead. Yachts usually moor at Vourkari, a harbour village close to Korissia.
A car or scooter is the practical way to see the island. Buses run rarely, and only a few taxis work on Kea, so book a taxi ahead. Many beaches and trailheads are reached by dirt tracks. The centre of Ioulida, the capital, has no cars, so park below the town and walk up. The marked routes are another way to move between villages.
May, June, September and October are good for walking, with mild weather and fewer people. July and August are hot. Weekends in July and August are the busiest, when many people from Athens come to the island. Midweek is quieter, and ferries and rooms are easier to find then. Spring and autumn suit the long walk to Karthaia, the ancient site in the south-east.
The trails to Karthaia are exposed to the sun, so wear sturdy shoes and carry water. Agia Irini, a prehistoric site near the port, has been open by appointment only, so check before you go. The archaeological museum in Ioulida, the capital, is usually closed on Tuesdays, so check current opening days. Wreck dives go ahead only in light wind, so a dive can move to another day.