Kimolos is a small island in the Cyclades, next to Milos. A channel about one kilometre wide separates the two. Fewer than a thousand people live on Kimolos, almost all of them in Chorio, the one large village, on a hill above the port of Psathi. Visitors come mainly for the beaches. Prassa has coarse white sand and light blue water, and Bonatsa is sandy and shallow. Inland, seven marked paths start from Chorio, and one of them leads to Skiadi, a rock shaped like a giant mushroom. Small boats cross to Polyaigos, an uninhabited island with sea caves. Kimolos has its busiest weeks in July and August, but it stays much quieter than the large Cycladic islands. Its best-known food is ladenia, a flat pie with tomato and onion.
Most of the beaches that a road reaches on Kimolos are sandy. The best known is Prassa, on the north-east coast. Its sand is coarse and white, and the water is light blue. In summer it has sunbeds and a beach bar, and the island bus stops there. On the south coast, Bonatsa is a sandy beach with shallow, calm water and tamarisk trees for shade, so families often choose it. Kalamitsi, next to it, has fine sand, a taverna and a view across the channel to Milos. Aliki, a little further east, lies in front of a salt pan.
Mavrospilia, on the west coast, is a sandy beach among white rocks, with no facilities. People go there to watch the sunset. Near it, at Ellinika, traces of the ancient town lie under shallow water. The beaches of the north coast, such as Monastiria and Soufi, are reached by a rough road that needs a 4×4, on foot or by boat. In July and August the north wind often makes them rough, while the south coast stays calm.
Chorio is the one large village on Kimolos, and almost everyone on the island lives there. It stands on a hill above Psathi, the port. The houses are white and built close together, and the lanes between them are narrow and paved with stone. In the middle is the Kastro, the old fortified part, and the newer houses spread out from it. The bank machine, the pharmacy, the bakeries and most places to eat are in Chorio.
Psathi, the port, is a short row of cafés, tavernas and rooms beside a small sandy beach. On the coast below Chorio, about ten minutes on foot, the fishing hamlets of Goupa and Rema have dozens of boat houses cut into the soft rock at the edge of the water. Each one is closed by a painted wooden door, and fishermen keep their boats inside in winter. People swim from the flat rocks beside them. A rock shaped like an elephant stands in the sea nearby.
Skiadi is a rock shaped like a giant mushroom, in the north-west of the island. Wind carrying sand has worn away the soft rock at its base faster than the hard rock on top. It is listed in the Atlas of Geological Monuments of the Aegean. The walk from Chorio, the main village, takes 70 to 90 minutes each way, on an old stone-paved path between olive trees and dry-stone walls.
This is one of seven marked walking routes, about 35 kilometres in total. All start from Chorio. They lead to beaches, to Paleokastro, the highest point of the island at 364 metres, and to the ancient site of Ellinika. Off the east coast lies Polyaigos, an uninhabited island with sea caves and beaches, protected in the European Natura 2000 network. Mediterranean monk seals breed there. In calm weather small boats take visitors to it from Psathi, the port of Kimolos.
The Kastro is the old fortified core of Chorio, the main village. The outer walls of its houses formed the defence. Its two gates carry the dates 1646 and 1650, from repairs after pirates burned the Kastro in 1638. People still live in the outer ring of houses. Of the inner part, a church from 1592 and one gateway still stand. A small folk museum is inside the Kastro.
The Archaeological Museum is in a 19th-century house in Chorio, opposite the church of Panagia Odigitria. It shows finds from prehistoric times to late antiquity. Most come from the cemetery of the ancient town at Ellinika, on the west coast. Part of that town now lies under the sea, and swimmers with a mask can see its traces. Many of the small churches of Chorio date from the 17th century.
The best-known food of Kimolos is ladenia, a flat pie of bread dough covered with fresh tomato, onion and olive oil. The bakeries of Chorio, the main village, sell it. They also make tirenia, a similar pie with cheese that was traditionally an Easter food, and elenia, bread filled with olives.
The island has two cheeses of its own. Xino is a fresh, sour cheese. Manoura is a hard cheese that is covered with the remains of pressed grapes while it matures. Tavernas also serve handmade pasta, fried tomato balls and salads with the local cucumber, which is round and striped and turns sweet when ripe. Honey, capers and tomato paste are sold as local products.
Prices shown per night for a sample 3-night stay. Rates and availability vary by season — select your dates for live pricing.
Ferries from Piraeus, the port of Athens, reach Psathi, the port of Kimolos, in about four to seven hours. Many of them call at Kythnos, Serifos, Sifnos and Milos on the way. Kimolos has no airport, and the nearest one is on Milos. A small car ferry crosses from Pollonia, a village in the north of Milos, to Psathi in about 20 minutes, several times a day in summer. There are fewer sailings in winter, and strong wind can cancel them, so check the timetable close to the day.
Chorio, the main village, is on the hill above Psathi, the port. One small bus links the port, Chorio and the main beaches a few times a day in summer, and its timetable changes with the season. Taxis are very few. Cars and scooters are rented at the port, and in July and August parking space is limited. The beaches of the north coast need a 4×4, a walk or a boat. Chorio itself is seen on foot, and seven marked paths start from it.
June and September are the best months for both swimming and walking. July and August bring the most visitors, although Kimolos stays much quieter than the large Cycladic islands. In those two months a strong north wind often blows. It makes the north-facing beaches rough and can stop the boat trips, while the south coast stays sheltered. The main festival is on 14 and 15 August in Chorio, the main village. Outside the summer, many tavernas and rooms are closed.
Rooms are few, so book early for July and August. Chorio, the main village, has a bank machine, a pharmacy and a medical office, and the island has a petrol station. The Archaeological Museum is usually closed on Tuesdays and through the winter, so check before you go. Many shops in Chorio close in the afternoon and open again in the evening.