Poliochni stands on the east coast, facing Troy. Many archaeologists call it the oldest city in Europe.

It was already a planned settlement in the Early Bronze Age, with paved streets between the houses, public buildings, and a hall with stepped seating. Some researchers read that hall as the earliest physical evidence of group decision-making in Europe.

The site reopened after a large restoration covering 22 blocks of buildings, with new walkways and information panels. Its famous gold treasure is now kept in Athens.

Hephaestia, on the bay of Pournias, was the most important ancient city on the island and the centre of its religious life. It is named after the god Hephaestus, who according to myth kept his forge here. Its Hellenistic-Roman theatre has been restored and stands in open countryside above the sea.

Nearby is the Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi, where secret religious ceremonies took place. People travelled from all over the Greek world to take part.

Above Myrina, a Byzantine fortress spreads across a rocky headland. It was begun in the late 12th century and later rebuilt by the Venetians. About two hundred fallow deer, brought from Rhodes in the 1970s, now live inside and below its walls.

Lemnos is flat and fertile in a way that most Aegean islands are not, and the food comes from farming rather than fishing.

The island grows wheat and barley, including an old variety called mavragani, which is milled into a dark, heavy flour. From it comes flomaria, hand-cut egg pasta traditionally served with rooster.

Kalathaki Limnou is a white cheese kept in brine and drained in small wicker baskets, which leave their pattern on the rind. It has PDO status — a European protected origin label — and so does the island's wine.

The volcanic soil suits Muscat of Alexandria, grown around Atsiki, Moudros and Nea Koutali. The island also grows Limnio, one of the oldest recorded red grape varieties anywhere. A large part of the vineyards are farmed organically.

The island divides in two.

The west coast, close to Myrina, has the organised beaches. Riha Nera and Romeikos Gialos are within walking distance of the town, both with sunbeds, bars and lifeguards. Plati lies two kilometres out and runs for about 700 metres of fine yellow sand. Further south, Thanos and Evgatis are wider and quieter — Evgatis is nearly two kilometres of pale sand with open countryside behind it. Several of these beaches have Blue Flag status, and a few have Seatrac ramps for swimmers with limited mobility.

The east and north coasts are emptier and windier. Keros is a shallow bay that faces the summer winds directly, and it has become one of the more reliable windsurfing and kitesurfing spots in the Aegean, with schools open through the season. Zematas is reached by dirt road and is worth the effort at sunset. Gomati lies below the dunes, exposed and often deserted.

Lemnos has almost no mountains. Its landscapes were made by wind, water and old volcanic rock.

The dunes

In the north, past the village of Katalakko, the Ammothines are a field of moving sand dunes covering about seventy stremmata. It is a stretch of desert a short walk from the sea. Gomati beach lies immediately below.

Fossils

Fossil sites are scattered across the island. There is a protected petrified forest with tree trunks about 23 million years old. Outside Varos, a fenced sequoia trunk more than seven metres long lies in the fields. In eastern Lemnos there are even older fossil traces preserved in sedimentary rock.

The wetlands

Lake Aliki, near Kontopouli, is said to hold the largest seasonal gathering of flamingos in Greece. Nearby, Chortarolimni and Asprolimni dry out completely in summer and fill again with the autumn rains. These places are for birdwatching rather than walking.

The meltemi wind makes Lemnos uncomfortable for some visitors, and it is exactly why others come. From May to October it blows steadily from the north and northeast, usually at four to six on the Beaufort scale.

Keros Bay has built a small industry around it. There are windsurfing and kitesurfing schools with equipment to rent, rescue boats, and lessons for children from about five years old. You can also try wingfoiling, paddleboards and small sailing dinghies.

Diving is the alternative on calm days. PADI centres operate at Keros and at Evgatis on the south coast. They run introductory dives, certification courses and guided trips to underwater pinnacles, small caves and reefs a few minutes from shore.

Inland, the island is flat, which makes it unusually good for cycling. Bikes and e-bikes are easy to find, and the distances between villages are manageable. Organised trips also go to the dunes, the salt lakes and the wineries.