Volos is a port city in Thessaly, on the Pagasetic Gulf at the foot of Mount Pelion. It is known across Greece for its tsipouradika, taverns where every small bottle of tsipouro is served with a plate of seafood meze chosen by the kitchen. The city has a long seafront promenade, a sandy city beach and an old district, Palia, where students and visitors go out in the evening. Its archaeological museum holds finds from the Neolithic settlements of Sesklo and Dimini, which can be visited just outside the city. Volos is also the starting point for the villages of Pelion and for ferries that run all year to the Sporades islands.

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Activities

A long seafront promenade runs through the centre of Volos, lined with cafés and restaurants, some of them in neoclassical buildings. The Kordoni pier reaches about a kilometre into the gulf and is a popular walk at sunset. The centre is flat, so it is easy to walk or cycle. For swimming, Anavros is the city beach, a long sandy beach with shallow water, within walking distance of the centre.

In the evening, people go to Palia, the old district behind the commercial port. Its streets have bars, cafés and tsipouradika, some in restored tobacco warehouses, and they are busy with students from the university, visitors and local people of all ages.

Volos is also a base for trips outside the city. The villages of Pelion are on the slopes above the city. Ferries and fast boats leave the port all year for the Sporades islands.

History & Culture

The Athanasakeio Archaeological Museum was built in 1909 for the painted gravestones found at ancient Demetrias, on the south side of the bay. It holds finds from across Thessaly, from the Neolithic to the Roman period. In its Neolithic rooms, many objects sit on open shelves of wood, reed and stone, with nothing between them and the visitor.

Two Neolithic settlements can be visited just outside the city. At Sesklo, first settled in the seventh millennium BC and one of the oldest settlements found in Europe, visitors walk among the remains of small houses and narrow streets. At Dimini, six rings of stone walls surround the Neolithic village. A Mycenaean town was also found at the same site, and it is believed to be Iolkos, the home of Jason, who in the myth sailed with the Argonauts to find the Golden Fleece.

Food & Drink

A tsipouradiko is a small tavern that serves tsipouro, a clear spirit made from what is left of the grapes after winemaking. You order only the drink, and the food comes with it. When you sit down, you are asked whether you want your tsipouro with aniseed or without. Each small bottle then arrives with a plate of meze chosen by the kitchen, and the plates change with each new bottle.

The food is mostly seafood. Pickles and salted fish usually come first, then fried and grilled fish such as sardines, and later octopus, mussels and less common dishes if the table keeps ordering. Tsipouradika began in the 1920s in the neighbourhoods where refugees from Asia Minor settled, and they served port workers and fishermen. Today families eat in them too. Most are in the centre and in the Nea Ionia district. Another local dish is spetsofai, a stew of country sausage and peppers.

Where to Stay

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Practical information

Volos:

Getting there

Volos is reached by road from the Athens–Thessaloniki motorway, and long-distance buses run from both cities. The railway line from Larissa was badly damaged by floods in 2023, so check whether trains are running. The airport at Nea Anchialos, 24 km south-west of the city, has mostly seasonal flights. Ferries and fast boats connect Volos all year with Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos; check current schedules.

Getting around

The centre of Volos is flat, so the seafront, Palia and the city beach at Anavros are all easy to reach on foot or by bicycle. Dimini is 5 km from the centre and Sesklo 8 km to the west; both are easiest to reach by car or taxi. A car is also the simplest way to reach the villages of Pelion on the slopes above the city.

Good to know

Volos is a city where people live and work all year, so it is lively in every season, not only in summer. The Athanasakeio Archaeological Museum is usually closed on Tuesdays, and Sesklo and Dimini are usually closed on Mondays. Both sites open only in the morning and early afternoon, so check current hours before you go. Ancient Demetrias, on the south side of the bay, usually opens only on weekdays.