Kavala is a port city in eastern Macedonia. It is built on the slopes above a wide bay, opposite the island of Thassos. Its old town, Panagia, covers a rocky peninsula next to the harbour, with a castle at the top. Below it, the stone arches of the Kamares aqueduct cross the modern centre. The city has a long seafront and sandy beaches on its western side. Kavala is also a ferry port. Boats cross to Thassos every day, and other ferries sail to Lemnos and more islands of the North Aegean. The ancient site of Philippi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, lies about 15 kilometres inland.
Panagia covers a rocky peninsula next to the harbour. Its lanes are paved with stone, and many houses have wooden balconies. At the top stands the castle, which the Ottomans rebuilt on Byzantine walls. You can walk on the walls and climb its round tower for views over the bay. Lower down, the 16th-century Halil Bey mosque is used for exhibitions, and a glass floor shows an Early Christian church beneath it. Nearby are the restored house of Mohammed Ali, who was born in Kavala and later ruled Egypt, and the Imaret, a domed complex he founded, now a hotel.
The Kamares aqueduct, built in the 16th century, crosses the centre on stone arches up to 25 metres high. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Kavala was a major centre for processing tobacco. Many of its large tobacco warehouses are preserved, and the Tobacco Museum shows how the leaves were grown and traded. The Archaeological Museum covers Neapolis, the ancient city on the site of Kavala, where the Apostle Paul landed on his first journey to Europe.
The beaches of the city lie along the coast west of the centre. Rapsani, the beach closest to the centre, sits below the coast road. Kalamitsa, at the western edge of the city, is a sandy beach with sunbeds, showers and bars. About 4 kilometres from the centre, Batis is a sandy, organised beach with a campsite behind it.
Tosca, about 5 kilometres west, is a quieter sandy cove where trees grow down to the water. On the other side of the city, Perigiali is a smaller beach at the eastern edge of town. For long stretches of sand, many visitors drive about 15 kilometres further west, to the coast around Nea Peramos, a small seaside town.
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Kavala's airport, named after Alexander the Great, lies about 30 kilometres east of the city. Thessaloniki airport is about 165 kilometres away. Buses run often between Thessaloniki and Kavala, and the trip takes two to three hours. By car, the Egnatia Odos motorway takes about two hours. Ferries cross from Kavala to Prinos on Thassos in a little over an hour. Other ferries sail to Lemnos and more islands of the North Aegean, and some continue to Lavrio or Piraeus near Athens. Check current routes.
The centre and Panagia, the old town, are easy to explore on foot. The lanes up to the castle are steep and paved with stone, so wear good shoes. Tosca, a beach about 5 kilometres west, is on the bus route to Nea Peramos, a seaside town further along the coast. Perigiali, a beach at the eastern edge of the city, can also be reached by bus. For the short ferry crossing to Thassos, Keramoti is a small port about 40 kilometres east of Kavala. For Philippi, the ancient site about 15 kilometres inland, check bus times or take a taxi.
The swimming season runs from June to September. The castle is open longer hours from May to September. In summer, concerts and plays are staged inside its walls. Spring and autumn are good for walking in Panagia, the old town, and for visiting the museums, which open all year.
The Archaeological Museum is usually closed on Tuesdays. The Tobacco Museum usually opens on weekdays only, so check current hours before you go. The castle charges an entry fee and has shorter hours in winter. Kavala has a marina for visiting yachts, with water and power at the berths and fuel on site.