Kefalonia is a large, mountainous island in the Ionian Islands, off the west coast of mainland Greece. Its capital, Argostoli, stands on a sheltered bay in the south-west. Most visitors come for the beaches, such as Myrtos, a white pebble beach below high cliffs on the west coast. The island is also known for its caves. At Melissani, a rowing boat crosses an underground lake lit by the sun through a hole in the roof. Mount Ainos, the highest mountain, is a national park with a forest of fir trees. In the north, the harbour village of Fiskardo kept its older houses through the earthquake of 1953. The island of Ithaca lies close to the east coast.

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Beaches

Kefalonia has two kinds of beach. On the west and north coasts, most beaches are white pebbles below steep slopes, with very clear water. Myrtos, on the west coast, lies at the foot of high cliffs. It is a long curve of bright white pebbles with turquoise water, and it has sunbeds and a road down to it. The beach is also one of the island's geosites.

The south coast has long stretches of sand. Skala, a resort village in the south-east, has a sandy beach about 5 km long, with bars and tavernas along it. On the Paliki peninsula in the west, near the town of Lixouri, Xi has red-brown sand. It is organised, with sunbeds, and its sand looks dark red against the blue sea.

Geography

Kefalonia is built mostly of limestone, and water moves through the rock underground. Kefalonia and Ithaca together form a UNESCO Global Geopark, with about 40 geosites on Kefalonia alone. Near Argostoli, the capital, at the Katavothres, sea water flows into holes in the rock and disappears. It travels under the island and comes out on the east coast, where it mixes with fresh water.

One place where it comes out is Melissani, a lake inside a cave whose roof has fallen in, near Sami on the east coast. Visitors go down about 100 steps and cross the lake in a rowing boat. About 5 km from Sami, Drogarati is a dry cave with a large hall about 65 metres long and 20 metres high, full of stalactites and stalagmites. It opened to visitors in 1963.

Villages & Inland

In August 1953, a series of strong earthquakes destroyed almost every building on Kefalonia. Argostoli, the capital, was rebuilt in a modern style. Its centre has a long pedestrian street, the Lithostroto. A stone bridge from the early 19th century, the De Bosset Bridge, crosses the lagoon next to the town.

Fiskardo, at the northern tip of the island, escaped the earthquake. Its older houses, built in the Venetian style, still line a small harbour where yachts and fishing boats moor. On the west coast, Assos sits on a narrow neck of land below a hill with a castle. It was rebuilt after the earthquake with help from France, and its square is named after Paris.

Nature & Outdoors

Mount Ainos National Park was created in 1962. It protects the high ground around Megas Soros, the island's highest peak at 1,628 metres. Its forest is made of the Kefalonian fir, a fir tree named after the island. Small semi-wild horses live on the south-eastern slopes.

Loggerhead sea turtles feed in the harbour of Argostoli, the capital, and in the Koutavos lagoon next to the town. They are often seen near the De Bosset Bridge, and they sometimes follow the fishing boats. In summer, the turtles lay their eggs on beaches of the south coast, mainly around the bay of Mounda near Skala.

History & Culture

Assos Castle stands on the hill above the village of Assos. The Venetians built it between 1593 and 1596, with about 2 km of walls. A restored stone path climbs to an arched gate with the lion of Saint Mark. Inside are the small church of Saint Mark and the remains of the governor's house.

The Castle of Saint George, also Venetian, stands on a hill above the village of Peratata, near Argostoli, with wide views. The Monastery of Agios Gerasimos, at the foot of Mount Ainos, keeps the relic of the island's patron saint. He founded it in 1560, and visitors can go down into his small underground cell.

Activities

Hiking is well organised. Mount Ainos National Park has five official hiking routes, from 2 km to about 9 km long. One goes from Digaleto up to the summit of Megas Soros. The geopark has 11 more routes, two of them by sea, with information signs at the main sites.

Scuba diving is based in the village of Agia Efimia on the north-east coast, and in the north around Fiskardo. Named dive sites include a large cave with a small wreck near Fiskardo, and reefs around the islet of Zeus. Horse riding is offered by stables near Sami, including rides on the beach.

Food & Drink

Kefalonia's best-known product is Robola, a white wine with a Protected Designation of Origin. The vines grow in the Omala valley, on the northern slopes of Mount Ainos, at 300 to 800 metres. A winemakers' association in the Omala valley has a visitor centre with tastings. Several smaller wineries around the island also welcome visitors.

Where to Stay

Prices shown per night for a sample 3-night stay. Rates and availability vary by season — select your dates for live pricing.

Practical information

Kefalonia:

Getting there

Kefalonia's airport is about 8 km from Argostoli, the capital. Flights from Athens take about 50 minutes, and charter flights arrive from several European countries. Ferries leave from several ports: Sami, on the east coast, connects to Patras and Ithaca; Poros, in the south-east, connects to Kyllini on the Peloponnese; Pessada, in the south, connects to Zakynthos. Check current timetables.

Getting around

A car is the practical way to see the island, because the beaches, caves and villages are far apart. Buses are limited, and the airport buses run only from about May to October. A small local ferry crosses the bay between Argostoli, the capital, and the town of Lixouri on the Paliki peninsula. Taxis are available, but book ahead in summer.

When to go

July and August are the busiest months. At Melissani, the cave lake near Sami, the sun lights the water best from about 11:00 to 14:00, but coach and cruise groups arrive from about 10:00. In summer, queues at Melissani can last more than an hour. Go at opening time or after about 15:30 to avoid them. On 16 August, the Monastery of Agios Gerasimos holds its main festival.

Good to know

Watch the loggerhead turtles in Argostoli harbour from the shore, and do not disturb them. Some south-coast beaches are turtle nesting areas, so keep away from marked nests. The hiking routes up Megas Soros, the summit of Mount Ainos, are about 6 to 9 km long, so bring water and good shoes. Assos Castle is reached only on foot, by a stone path from the village.

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