The Agrafa Mountains are in the southern part of the Pindus, in the areas of Evrytania and Karditsa. Lake Plastiras lies at the north-eastern edge of the range and Lake Kremasta at the south-western edge, and both are man-made lakes. The main rivers are the Agrafiotis, the Megdovas, also called the Tavropos, and the Achelous. The Agrafiotis valley divides the range into a western part and an eastern part.

Karava is the highest peak, at 2,184 metres. Delidimi and Voutsikaki also rise above 2,100 metres, and other peaks pass 2,000 metres. The rocks are mostly limestone and flysch, which is a layered rock, and the steep slopes mean that landslides are common. Trees stop growing at about 1,800 metres, and the ground above is open. Rivers have cut deep, narrow gorges into the range, and they run south towards Lake Kremasta.

Forests of Macedonian fir cover much of the range, with beech, chestnut and oak, and more than 1,200 plant species grow here. In 2022, about 94 square kilometres in the west and south were given the status of Untrodden Mountains, which bans new roads and other building. Bears, wild goats, golden eagles and griffon vultures live in the protected area, and parts of it belong to the Natura 2000 network of protected sites. The Agrafiotis Gorge is one of these sites.

The Bouzounikou Gorge is about 650 metres long, with steep rock walls, and people of all ages can walk through it. Upstream, the Granitsiotis Gorge has narrow passages and caves. On the Karditsa side, the Anthochori waterfall lies along a gorge, and it has two cascades. A path with wooden steps and rope rails leads to it, and its flow is stronger in spring and gentler in late summer.

Walkers on the Karditsa side, above Lake Plastiras, find trails with numbers and paint marks, and they lead to a mountain refuge at about 1,500 metres. From the refuge, a route marked in red and yellow climbs Voutsikaki, which takes about three hours and is demanding. The E4 long-distance path also crosses the range, through the Agrafiotis valley. Longer routes cross the range in four to six days, such as the Via Agrafa, which is about 91 kilometres long.

The Bouzounikou Gorge is also a climbing area, with about a hundred bolted sport routes in seven sectors, and the walk to the rock takes less than five minutes. Guided river-trekking trips run in the Granitsiotis and Bouzounikou gorges and, further south, in the Asprorema canyon. They follow the riverbed, and walkers swim in some places, so bring swimwear.

Villages in the Agrafa are small and far apart, and some have only a handful of residents all year. Granitsa has tavernas, cafés and a small hotel, and it is a base for the Bouzounikou Gorge. Agrafa village stands at about 840 metres, on a high meadow with a stone church and a bell tower. Kerasochori and Krentis, two small villages on the road along the Agrafiotis river, lead into the river valley. Krentis also has a hotel and tavernas. Epiniana, at about 1,100 metres, is the village where the river-trekking trips into the Asprorema canyon begin.

On the Karditsa side, Neochori, Belokomiti and Karitsa lie near Lake Plastiras, and the trail to the Agrafa refuge starts near Neochori. Old Viniani, on the Evrytania side, was largely abandoned after an earthquake in 1966.

The name Agrafa means "unwritten". A common explanation is that the villages were left out of the tax lists because the area was so hard to reach. Under Ottoman rule the area had little outside control, and it kept its own armed groups and its own ways of settling disputes.

Panagia Pelekiti monastery is northwest of the village of Karitsa, at about 1,400 metres, and it is built on a steep rock face. It was completed in 1529 and renovated in 1990. It has two churches with frescoes from the 17th century. Panagia Stanas, near Epiniana, was built in 1550 among the rocks. It no longer works as a monastery, but visitors can go in. Arched stone bridges from the 16th and 17th centuries cross some of the river canyons.