The Achelous flows for about 220 km through western Greece, from the Pindus mountains to the Ionian Sea. It rises on Mount Lakmos and crosses parts of Thessaly, Epirus and Central Greece. Visitors come for rafting on its upper course, where the water runs clear and blue between high mountains, and for the villages and stone bridges of the valley. In the middle of its course, the Kremasta dam created Lake Kremasta, a large reservoir with long arms between the mountains, used for boat trips and kayaking. At its mouth west of Messolonghi, the river forms a delta of wetlands and forest, part of a national park where flamingos and egrets feed.

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Geography

The Achelous rises at about 2,000 metres on the eastern side of Mount Lakmos, in the Pindus range, and flows south for about 220 km to the Ionian Sea. Its upper course is known locally as Aspropotamos, which means "the white river". There it forms the border between Epirus and Thessaly. Further south, the river forms borders between five regional units: Trikala, Karditsa, Arta, Evrytania and Aitoloakarnania.

Its tributaries include the Agrafiotis and the Tavropos (Megdovas), which meet it in Lake Kremasta. Dams at Mesochora (2001), Kremasta (1965), Kastraki (1969) and Stratos (1989) control its flow, and the three lower dams hold large reservoirs. Lake Kremasta, the largest of them, covers about 80 square kilometres. Below Stratos, the river crosses the plain of Aitoloakarnania and reaches the sea about 29 km west of Messolonghi, through a delta of marshes and river forest.

Activities

Rafting trips run on two sections of the upper river. The first starts at the Alexiou bridge and ends just before the Mesochora dam. It has grade II and III rapids, clear blue water and white pebble beaches for stops, and the valley widens as you go, with views of the peaks of the Pindus. The second starts below the Mesochora dam and runs for about 15 km to the village of Terpna, past the forests of the Tzoumerka mountains. Its rapids, of grade II and III, suit beginners.

Further south, Lake Kremasta, the large reservoir in Evrytania, is used for canoeing and kayaking, with organised trips, and for boat rides. The lake spreads into long, narrow arms between the mountains, and a boat needs six to seven hours to travel all of it. Two long road bridges cross the lake, at Tatarna and at Episkopi.

Villages & Inland

Near its springs, the river passes the villages of the Aspropotamos area, at more than 1,000 metres among fir forests and the peaks of the Pindus. Chaliki, 25 km from the mountain town of Metsovo, has three stone bridges over the streams that feed the river. The village of Kalliroi lies about 20 km further down the valley.

Further south, where the river forms the border between Karditsa and Arta, the valley has narrow gorges, water mills and old stone bridges, such as those of Avlaki and Templa. It also has perataries, cable crossings built in the 1950s so that villagers could cross the river. In summer, the river leaves small beaches along its banks, where people swim in blue-green water.

Nature & Outdoors

The river ends in a wide delta on the Ionian coast, west of Messolonghi. Its lower course and mouth are part of a national park that also covers the lagoons of Messolonghi and Aitoliko and the mouth of the Evinos. Great white egrets and flamingos feed in these wetlands. Off the mouth, the Echinades, a group of small islands, have a large colony of shags, a kind of sea cormorant.

Near the village of Lesini, the Fraxos forest, a forest of ash trees, has been protected as a natural monument since 1985. At Srofa, on the coast, loggerhead sea turtles lay their eggs on the beach. Much of the farmland around the delta is planted with orange groves.

History & Culture

On a low hill near the mouth stand the walls, theatre and shipsheds of ancient Oiniades. In ancient times the hill rose above marshes of the Achelous, which protected the city. Its shipsheds, cut into the rock, are known for how well they have survived. The theatre looks out over the river and the plain, and it hosts a yearly festival.

In myth, the river was a god, Achelous. He fought Heracles for the right to marry Deianira, taking the shape of a bull, and Heracles broke off one of his horns. In the version of the Roman poet Ovid, nymphs filled the horn with fruit and flowers, and it became the horn of plenty.

Achelous River

Practical information

Getting around

A car is the practical way to follow the river, because its sections are far apart and linked by mountain roads. Rafting trips on the upper river usually include transport to the start and back. In the middle valley, the river can be reached from villages such as Granitsa in Evrytania, Perdikaki in Aitoloakarnania and Kranies in Arta. On Lake Kremasta, the large reservoir in the middle course, boat rides and organised canoe and kayak trips run on the lake.

Getting there

Each part of the river has its own starting point. The villages near the springs, such as Chaliki, are about 25 km from Metsovo. The village of Kalliroi is about 54 km from Kalambaka, the town below Meteora. Lake Kremasta, the large reservoir in the middle course, is reached from Karpenisi, the main town of Evrytania. The delta and ancient Oiniades are reached from Messolonghi.

When to go

Rafting runs mainly from late winter to spring, when the water is high; check current conditions with the organisers. Summer is the season for swimming at the small beaches of the middle valley, and for canoeing on Lake Kremasta, the large reservoir in the middle course. The villages near the springs lie above 1,000 metres, so in winter call ahead, as some guesthouses and tavernas close.

Good to know

Rafting trips are run by companies that provide the equipment and a guide. On the section below the Mesochora dam, children usually need to be at least 12 and come with a guardian. For the delta, the Salt Museum at Tourlida, near Messolonghi, and information boards in the town explain the national park. Check opening times for the site of ancient Oiniades before you go.

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