The Vardousia Mountains are a group of high peaks in Central Greece, at the southern end of the Pindus range and next to Mount Giona. The highest peak, Korakas, reaches 2,495 metres. The upper part has steep rocky ridges and wide meadows, and the slopes below are covered with fir forest. Walkers come from late spring to autumn for the marked paths and the climb to Korakas. In winter the steep, snow-covered slopes bring mountaineers. Two mountain refuges stand below the summit. The village of Athanasios Diakos, on the eastern side, is the usual base. It is named after a hero of the Greek War of Independence, who is said to have been born here.
Geography
Vardousia stands in the north-west of Phocis, an area of Central Greece, and its northern end reaches into the area of Phthiotis. It is the southern end of the Pindus range and measures about 25 kilometres from north to south. Mount Giona is to the south-east, Mount Oeta to the east and Mount Tymfristos to the north-west.
The mountains have three parts. The southern part is the highest. Its summit, Korakas, at 2,495 metres, is the top of a long ridge that goes down towards the reservoir of Lake Mornos. The western part is the steepest, and its highest peak, Soufles, is about 2,300 metres. The northern part is lower.
Three rivers take water from Vardousia. Streams on the northern side run to the Sperchios, those on the east and south to the Mornos, and those on the west to the Evinos, which begins here. The rock is mostly limestone.
Activities
Most people come to Vardousia to walk and climb, and most routes start at the village of Athanasios Diakos, on the eastern side. The climb to Korakas is the classic route. A marked path, part of the European E4 trail, goes up through fir forest to the meadows of Pitimaliko and the two mountain refuges in about four hours. From the refuges the summit is about two hours further, across the high plateau of Megas Kampos. This last part has few marks and needs experience.
There are shorter walks too. A path leads from Athanasios Diakos down to the village of Kato Mousounitsa in about an hour, and a circular route to the chapel of Profitis Ilias takes three to four hours. On the northern side, a path climbs from the village of Dafni to the peak of Sinani in about two and a half hours.
In winter Vardousia is known for mountaineering on snow and ice. Many Greek mountaineering schools train in its steep gullies. These routes need winter equipment and training.
Nature & Outdoors
Fir forest covers about 40 per cent of Vardousia. The trees are mostly Greek fir, and they grow up to about 1,700 metres. The paths from the villages pass through this forest before they come out on open ground.
Above the forest are alpine meadows with springs and streams, used as grazing land. The meadows of Pitimaliko, around the refuges, are the easiest to reach. About 1,200 kinds of plants have been recorded here, and a few of them grow nowhere else. Birds of the high ground include the rock partridge, the horned lark and the snowfinch, and the black woodpecker lives in the forest. About 250 square kilometres are protected in the European Natura 2000 network.
Villages & Inland
Athanasios Diakos
This village is on the eastern slope, at about 1,000 metres, above the upper valley of the Mornos. Fir forest surrounds it, and the square has plane trees and springs. It was called Ano Mousounitsa until the 1950s, when it took the name of Athanasios Diakos, a hero of the Greek War of Independence of 1821. A small museum about him is in a house by the river that is believed to be his family home. A few hundred people live here, and the village has guesthouses and tavernas.
Artotina
Artotina is on the western slope, at about 1,200 metres, near the springs of the Evinos. It also claims to be the birthplace of Diakos, and the question is not settled. Near the village is the monastery of Agios Ioannis Prodromos, where he lived as a young monk. The E4 trail crosses the mountains between the two villages.
Practical information
Getting there
Most routes start at the village of Athanasios Diakos, on the eastern side, about 280 kilometres from Athens. The usual way is the motorway towards Lamia, then the road that turns off for Amfissa at Bralos and crosses Mount Oeta through the village of Pavliani. A second road comes up from the south, from the small town of Lidoriki. Both are mountain roads with many bends. Artotina, on the western side, is reached by a different road, so choose your side before you set off.
Good to know
The larger of the two refuges, at about 1,900 metres, belongs to the mountaineering club of Amfissa. It is a large building with a dining hall, but it opens only by arrangement, so call the club before you go. The second refuge, a little higher, is small and has no warden. A dirt road of 10 to 15 kilometres climbs from Athanasios Diakos to the refuges. Its condition changes, so ask in the village. Above the refuges the paths have few marks, so carry a map and check the weather first.
When to go
Snow stays on the high ground until late spring. The dirt road to the refuges is usually clear from about the end of May, and the walking season lasts until autumn. In winter there is deep snow, and the climb to Korakas then needs winter equipment and experience. The road to Athanasios Diakos can be icy in winter, so carry snow chains. The village is busiest in spring and summer.
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