Ioannina is the largest city in Epirus, built on a promontory that pushes out into Lake Pamvotida, with the ridge of Mitsikeli rising behind the water.

Its castle is one of the oldest still standing in Greece, and people live inside it. For thirty-four years, from 1788, it was the seat of Ali Pasha, who ran Epirus and much of western Greece as a state of his own and was killed on the island in the middle of the lake.

The city has been a centre of silversmithing for centuries, it has the oldest continuously inhabited Jewish quarter in Greece, and four kilometres from its centre is the first cave in the country ever opened to visitors.

Metsovo, a picturesque town nestled in the Pindus mountains, is known for its traditional architecture and stunning landscapes. The town has a population of around 2,500 residents, maintaining a quaint and intimate atmosphere. The surrounding area features rugged mountains, dense forests, and clear rivers, making it a haven for nature lovers.

Nearby towns worth visiting include Ioannina, about an hour's drive west, known for its historic lake and castle, and Kalambaka, also around an hour away, famous for the Meteora monasteries perched atop towering rock formations. Each of these locations offers unique attractions and a taste of local culture.

Metsovo itself is a hub of cultural heritage with attractions like the Averoff Gallery and the Tositsa Mansion Museum. The nearby Monastery of Saint Nicholas and the Monastery of Voutsas provide historical insights and beautiful views, each about 30 minutes to an hour away. The town receives a fair amount of tourism all year round, attracting visitors with its blend of quiet retreats and active outdoor adventures.

Dodoni lies twenty-two kilometres south of Ioannina, in Epirus, in a narrow valley at the foot of Mount Tomaros, six hundred metres above sea level.

It was the oldest oracle in Greece — older than Delphi — and for most of its life it had no temple at all. People worshipped in the open air, around a single oak tree.

The tree and the priests

The sanctuary belonged first to an earth goddess, and the worship of Zeus came later, brought by the Selloi, a people of Epirus, in the second millennium BC. Zeus was worshipped here with Dione, and the two of them were said to live in the oak.

Homer describes the priests of Dodoni as men who never washed their feet and slept on the ground. Later the oracle was served by priestesses called the Peleiades — the doves. Herodotus was told that the sanctuary began when a black dove flew here from Egypt, settled on the oak, and spoke with a human voice.

The god answered through the tree. Priests listened to the sound of the leaves moving, and to bronze vessels hung around the sanctuary that rang when the wind touched them.

The questions people asked

What makes Dodoni different from every other oracle is that the questions survive.

From about the sixth century BC, people who came here wrote their question on a thin strip of lead, folded it, and handed it in. Thousands of these strips have been dug out of the ground, and they are not the questions of kings.

They ask whether to marry, whether the child is his, whether to buy the land, where the missing blankets went, whether to keep sheep or take up trade. It is the most direct record we have of what ordinary Greeks worried about.

Pyrrhus and the end

The sanctuary grew into a proper complex under Pyrrhus, king of Epirus, in the third century BC. He built the theatre, one of the largest in Greece, seating somewhere between fifteen and seventeen thousand people, together with a stadium, a council chamber and temples.

At the end of the fourth century AD, under the emperor Theodosius, Christian basilicas were built inside the sanctuary and the sacred oak was cut down.

Dodoni was then lost for fourteen hundred years. An English traveller identified the valley in 1832, excavation confirmed it in 1875, and systematic work began in the 1950s.

What to see today

The theatre is what people come for. It has been restored over many years and it is used again for performances in summer.

Beside it stands the Sacred House, the temple of Zeus, which grew from a simple enclosure around the tree into a walled building in at least four stages. An oak grows on the spot today — not the original one, but planted where it stood.

Around them are the bouleuterion, where the council of the Epirote federation met, the stadium, temples of Dione, Aphrodite and Themis, and the foundations of an early Christian basilica.

Above the sanctuary is the acropolis, with its walls and gates, and a water cistern cut into the rock. Few visitors climb up to it, and the view down over the whole valley is the best on the site.

The finds are not here. The lead tablets, the bronzes and the votive offerings are in the Archaeological Museum of Ioannina, about half an hour away.

Arta sits on a loop of the Arachthos river in southern Epirus, where the mountains come down to a wide plain of orange groves.

It was Ambracia in antiquity, and for two centuries in the Middle Ages it was the capital of the Despotate of Epirus — which is why a town of this size holds some of the finest Byzantine churches in Greece.

South of it the plain ends in the Ambracian Gulf, an almost closed sea of lagoons and reedbeds with its own resident population of dolphins. North and east rise the Tzoumerka mountains.

And on the edge of the town stands the bridge that every Greek child learns a song about.

Zagori is a group of stone villages in the mountains of Epirus, north of Ioannina, spread across the slopes of the Pindus range.

There are forty-six of them. They are built of the same grey stone as the mountains, with slate roofs, and they are connected to each other by a network of cobbled paths, stepped ways and arched stone bridges that was built before there were roads.

In September 2023 UNESCO added Zagori to the World Heritage List as a cultural landscape — the first time Greece had a site inscribed in that category.

Between the villages runs the Vikos Gorge, and below it the Voidomatis, which is among the clearest rivers in Europe.

Ioannina is the largest city in Epirus, built on a promontory that pushes out into Lake Pamvotida, with the ridge of Mitsikeli rising behind the water.

Its castle is one of the oldest still standing in Greece, and people live inside it. For thirty-four years, from 1788, it was the seat of Ali Pasha, who ran Epirus and much of western Greece as a state of his own and was killed on the island in the middle of the lake.

The city has been a centre of silversmithing for centuries, it has the oldest continuously inhabited Jewish quarter in Greece, and four kilometres from its centre is the first cave in the country ever opened to visitors.

Zagori is a group of stone villages in the mountains of Epirus, north of Ioannina, spread across the slopes of the Pindus range.

There are forty-six of them. They are built of the same grey stone as the mountains, with slate roofs, and they are connected to each other by a network of cobbled paths, stepped ways and arched stone bridges that was built before there were roads.

In September 2023 UNESCO added Zagori to the World Heritage List as a cultural landscape — the first time Greece had a site inscribed in that category.

Between the villages runs the Vikos Gorge, and below it the Voidomatis, which is among the clearest rivers in Europe.

Papingo is a pair of stone villages, Megalo Papingo and Mikro Papingo, on the northern slopes of Mount Tymfi in Zagori, in the Epirus region. Stone houses roofed in grey slate line cobbled lanes on a steep hillside above the Voidomatis river, three kilometres of narrow road separating the two villages. Most visitors come to walk: the Vikos Gorge and the high trails of Tymfi both start from here, and staying overnight means reaching the mountain before the day-trippers from Ioannina arrive. Together the villages hold only a few hundred residents, and most guesthouses occupy restored stone mansions rather than purpose-built hotels.

Preveza is a picturesque coastal town located at the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf in northwestern Greece, offering a charming blend of historical significance and natural beauty. The town is characterized by its picturesque landscapes, with lush greenery and a stunning coastline. Preveza’s population swells during the tourist season, reflecting its appeal as a holiday destination.

Key attractions include the ancient ruins of Nikopolis, just a short drive from the city, offering a glimpse into the Roman era with its well-preserved structures. The town's Venetian Castle provides historical insights and panoramic views of the sea and the surrounding areas. Additionally, the nearby town of Parga, approximately an hour’s drive away, is worth visiting for its beautiful beaches and vibrant atmosphere.

Preveza is a well-developed tourist destination, especially popular in the summer months. It offers a mix of quiet spots for relaxation and lively areas for more active holidays. The town’s vibrant waterfront is lined with cafes, tavernas, and shops, providing a bustling atmosphere. The surrounding natural areas offer opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, bird watching, and water sports.

Zagori is a group of stone villages in the mountains of Epirus, north of Ioannina, spread across the slopes of the Pindus range.

There are forty-six of them. They are built of the same grey stone as the mountains, with slate roofs, and they are connected to each other by a network of cobbled paths, stepped ways and arched stone bridges that was built before there were roads.

In September 2023 UNESCO added Zagori to the World Heritage List as a cultural landscape — the first time Greece had a site inscribed in that category.

Between the villages runs the Vikos Gorge, and below it the Voidomatis, which is among the clearest rivers in Europe.

Ioannina is the largest city in Epirus, built on a promontory that pushes out into Lake Pamvotida, with the ridge of Mitsikeli rising behind the water.

Its castle is one of the oldest still standing in Greece, and people live inside it. For thirty-four years, from 1788, it was the seat of Ali Pasha, who ran Epirus and much of western Greece as a state of his own and was killed on the island in the middle of the lake.

The city has been a centre of silversmithing for centuries, it has the oldest continuously inhabited Jewish quarter in Greece, and four kilometres from its centre is the first cave in the country ever opened to visitors.

Mastorochoria, meaning "villages of the master craftsmen", is a group of stone villages in the mountains of Epirus, near the Albanian border. They stand on the slopes of Mount Grammos, above the Sarantaporos river, and fewer than a thousand people live in them today. From the 18th century, men from these villages worked as masons across Greece and the Balkans, building the stone bridges, churches and mansions the region is known for. Pyrsogianni, the largest village, has a museum of their craft. Nearby, the Aoos river offers rafting, and the Sarantaporos meets it near an old monastery built into the hillside.

Metsovo, a picturesque town nestled in the Pindus mountains, is known for its traditional architecture and stunning landscapes. The town has a population of around 2,500 residents, maintaining a quaint and intimate atmosphere. The surrounding area features rugged mountains, dense forests, and clear rivers, making it a haven for nature lovers.

Nearby towns worth visiting include Ioannina, about an hour's drive west, known for its historic lake and castle, and Kalambaka, also around an hour away, famous for the Meteora monasteries perched atop towering rock formations. Each of these locations offers unique attractions and a taste of local culture.

Metsovo itself is a hub of cultural heritage with attractions like the Averoff Gallery and the Tositsa Mansion Museum. The nearby Monastery of Saint Nicholas and the Monastery of Voutsas provide historical insights and beautiful views, each about 30 minutes to an hour away. The town receives a fair amount of tourism all year round, attracting visitors with its blend of quiet retreats and active outdoor adventures.

Nikopolis, meaning "City of Victory," is a fascinating archaeological site located in the Epirus region of Greece. Founded by Octavian, later known as Emperor Augustus, in 31 BC, the city commemorates his victory at the Battle of Actium against Antony and Cleopatra of Egypt. The sprawling archaeological site boasts impressive remnants of this once-great city: monumental gates, theaters, baths, and the renowned Odeon, showcasing the architectural prowess of its time.

The area is characterized by diverse landscapes, including lush green hills, pristine coastlines, and the scenic Ambracian Gulf. Close to Nikopolis, the town of Preveza is worth visiting, offering a charming harbor, Venetian castle, and vibrant local markets. The Archaeological Museum of Nikopolis, located in Preveza, houses a remarkable collection of artifacts from the site, providing deeper insights into its historical and cultural importance. Parga, another picturesque town approximately an hour’s drive away, is known for its colorful houses, beautiful beaches, and historic castle. Also the nearby Acheron River, is famous for its mythological significance and natural beauty.

Papingo is a pair of stone villages, Megalo Papingo and Mikro Papingo, on the northern slopes of Mount Tymfi in Zagori, in the Epirus region. Stone houses roofed in grey slate line cobbled lanes on a steep hillside above the Voidomatis river, three kilometres of narrow road separating the two villages. Most visitors come to walk: the Vikos Gorge and the high trails of Tymfi both start from here, and staying overnight means reaching the mountain before the day-trippers from Ioannina arrive. Together the villages hold only a few hundred residents, and most guesthouses occupy restored stone mansions rather than purpose-built hotels.